Your love is Kiiiiiiiiiing….

Been long enough, no? What have I been up to? Mostly scrubbing my hands, since two weeks ago I did this:

IMG_0465
I edited out some wrinkles and zits, I’m normally not this perfect, SNORT!!!

Manic Panic is a messy mistress, but I love me in this colour! And moving right along, I also painted the “art wall”, to a colour that totally clashes with my hair. Bad for taking blog pictures, but at least my living room looks better. And because it’s so bad for taking pictures, I will model my latest creations in front of this wall, even though the cleanup is not quite complete, and the baseboards… Sigh…

So, have you heard about “Jean-ius:  Reverse Engineer Your Favorite Fit” from Craftsy (once again, I’m not being paid by Craftsy for this, maybe I should hit them up for some free courses)? Taught by Prof. Kenneth King, who is a true genius, his method of copying clothes is amazing. I need to say that the pair of jeans that I started with was not my favourite. I don’t think I ever had a fave pair of pants. Old Navy’s Diva came the closest, but when my last pair practically disintegrated from so much wear, I had to come up with something. Can’t buy any more, I am on a retail clothing fast, remember?IMG_0413

This is what you’re supposed to do to your pants. The idea is to mark all the necessary features of the pattern with thread, and when you’re done with taking the pattern you can pull the thread out and you can still wear your pants as if nothing happened. My pair was so dead that I got lazy and just drew on them with markers. It worked.

IMG_0424

IMG_0425IMG_0426

We can all agree that the fit to start with was not so great, but it was not catastrophic. And here’s what I came out with following King’s precise and crystal-clear instructions:

pants
Click the image to enlarge.

There were several snags, such as awfully butchered zipper installation (the top flap did not cover the zipper, gaaaaaah!). And also, I managed to hit a gnarly combo of marking my grain line wrong on the pattern (I was off by a couple of degrees). This got amplified by the fact that the original was not cut perfectly on grain, apparently cheap clothing manufacturers do that to save on fabric costs. My being totally off the grain can be seen in the inner leg seam veering to the front (middle picture, above). But in overall I liked this pair, I wore it a lot. It had just the right amount of stretch… and… what did the prof say? That he absolutely refuses to work with stretch jeans for this technique? Even if you start with a stretch fabric, the amount of stretch you have in the “copy” fabric might not be the same, therefore the fit will be different. Makes sense, but I immediately had to venture into the non-stretch territory. I was thinking that I would make the seam allowances smaller and all should workout. Bahahaha!

IMG_0439
I overexposed the picture on purpose, so you can see the wrinkles in the fabric.

Looking vaguely triumphant, these pants look slimming! But it’s probably because they are KINDA tight in some areas… like the stomach… and the upper bum…

IMG_0449Even though I messed up the zipper insertion again, I totally fixed the grain line problem, yes! And the extra wrinkles all around the bum come from the fact that they are simply too tight in those areas.

And now you may ask why do I keep blogging about all those sewing disasters that I call “clothes”? Ummm, to document my sewing journey? To give hope to those who, like me, keep messing up and yet they go on to create another “failure”, but eventually they end up with a proper pair of pants. Or not. Because a failure is a failure only when you give up! And I know that one day soon I will have a proper, well-fitting pair of pants.

So fight on, dear sewists!

Oh yeah, I would have forgotten: I recommend this course to anybody having even a remote interest in making pants. The amount of cool techniques that one can learn from this teacher is amazing! How to make a contoured waist band with your iron? Sure!  What are pocket stays and what are benefits of such? Yes, installed them in both pairs and love them!

IMG_0453
See, pocket stays. And the butchered zipper insertion. Obviously I’m not getting something…

But in the meantime, brace yourselves, I am churning out another dress for

Julia Bobbin - Mad Men Challenge III
Yes, yes, yes!
The post is due by April 1st (my birthday), and this time I’m going with a 50s bored housewife dress. Vaguely inspired by early Betty, since I have no idea what’s been going on for the last 2 seasons because Netflix doesn’t have those seasons! But anyhoo, see you soon, and keep on keeping on!

Whatever makes you happy…

I’ve had this polyester fabric for almost a year, I could never figure out what to make out of it, and yet I wanted to use it so badly… The colour washed me out, I was too pale for it, but I looked at it longingly at least 3 times a day every day, wishing that I could come up with something.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The issue was, the combination of the colours and the pattern just made me so happy! I desperately wanted to wrap myself in that fabric when feeling blah. Finally, I stumbled on McCalls M6711 (I picked up that pattern because I really wanted to make the jacket, view A). As I am really intimidated to start on the jacket, I stalled by making the shirt (view B) and pants (view E). I did not make any muslins, I just  cut, sewed, crossed my fingers and toes, cut some more and more and unpicked stitches and sewed some more (in case of the shirt), and made my own waistband instead of the facing (in case of the pants). And here’s the result:

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Not so impressed by the tapered cut. The pants are cotton twill, fairly high-waisted.

Both the top and pants came out too roomy, even though I took in all the seams by considerate amount. I can’t believe how much ease was built into those garments. But oh so comfortable! And real, functional pockets! I also can’t believe that I made tapered pants, which I avoid like the plague (how did I ever miss the fact that it was tapered cut?) But wait for it…

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWhen you roll up the pants they have a totally different look, playful, and still so comfy. Unless you choose to wear them with some hooker platform heels, which I just adore! And with a belt even the top looks a bit more shaped. And with more bronzer  and blush I don’t look so washed out! Unfortunately, this is not the best choice of fabric for this top, it does not drape well, so the gathers at the shoulders and back need to be ironed down, otherwise they billow… But you know what? This top makes me happy! I’ve worn this shirt and pants (together and apart) at least 10 times since I made them. And every time I wear them, I feel so happy, it always works! As I was taking these pictures I was sick with an awful cold, super-sore throat, and second case of pinkeye. Can you tell? I know, right?!  It is because the shirt makes me so happy!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Since taking these pictures I acquired some more suitable belts to… ehem… “accentuate my waist”. They work better, but you get the idea.

So here you go, one more self-indulgent photo. The need-to-pee pose ever so slimming! And just so you know, I made the dress (view C) as well. So no more stalling, get on with the jacket now woman! But before I go, I will leave you with this gem I saw on Facebook. Heavily peppered with F-bombs, but reading this makes me so happy:

fbSo you know: whatever makes you happy! Do share…

Ikea Fabric Dare Pants – aka spring is here!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHere we are! When the dare was issued to me by lovely Catja of Gjeometry, I thought I’d make a skirt out of this fabric. But then C. decided to make a skirt, so I’ve decided to make these pants (Vogue 8866, view E). I’ve had very little success with making pants in the past, so I thought it would be a great opportunity to try and make it right. It was an agonizing process (more on that later), but so worth it in the end! I wore these last Sunday, when I hosted some family over for Easter dinner/my pre-birthday party. I wore these most of the day, cooked, entertained, and got almost smaaaaaaashed! The pants did beautifully, they survived all the activities! In addition to that, not only they made me feel like spring was almost here, but  I felt like I WAS THE SPRING! No article of me-made clothing, and definitely not RTW clothing made me feel this way! So enjoy some super-fuzzy pictures, taken in front of my my son’s wall art…

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Front.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
See how wide they are? I would never buy pants like that, and here I am!
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Back. Now that I see these pics I’m realizing that it looks like one leg is shorter than the other. Could it be?

I had only 2 meters of this fabric (that’s what the pattern called for), left from my previous sewing adventures so matching the print pattern was not an option. The print is very large, as you can see, and there would be an enormous amount of waste in any case. So I tried to concentrate the most flower action on the bottom of the pant legs and include the vertical elements to facilitate the up-down eye movement, rather than having it linger in some ehem, less attention worthy area of my bod, you know what I mean.

sideseams
Side seams. Even though there’s no pattern matching, I think I tackled the issue well-ish.

And now, THE PROCESS:

Just a warning though, what follows is a lot of crotch shots, many of them unappetizing… All in the name of education.

front
Front

From left to right:

1. Completely unaltered pattern, doom and gloom, waist predictably too tight, yucky folds running diagonally from the crotch towards the hip. Fitting For Every Figure diagnosis: High Hip Adjustment needed. A-ha! 90% of pants on the market represent this problem for me, and 100% of me-mades (at least the non-athletic ones).

2. I let out all the 4 seams to add more room in the high hip and waist, but then the waist  was way too big, making them drop lower, re-creating the diagonal folds.

3. Took only the side seams in at the waist, and narrowed the hip. Later, I shortened the front crotch by a tiny amount, to get rid of those horizontal wrinkles (picture #3).

4. What folds? What wrinkles?

And the back:

back
Back

These pictures represent more or less same points in the construction. After adding to the waist, the pants were sitting too low, so I ended up with too much bulk in the back centre seam (pic #2, ugh!). Took that in, resulting in situation pictured with the grey pants (that was my muslin #2). The main difference between that and the finished project was that I narrowed the whole leg from the inside only, so I ended up with less bunching between the thighs.

And just so you can see that it’s me wearing my pants, here is one of me. Wearing the pants. The most flattering picture of about 50 that I took. None of them flattering, since my hairdresser gave me a haircut that was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too short. In general, not flattering at all. Crossing my fingers and toes that it grows out fast.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
I promise you’ll get a better picture when the weather is nice enough to take pictures outside. And when my hair is back…

So how about you, dear reader, do you make muslins? How many per garment, if at all?